Category Archives: Recipes: veal

Swordfish with White Wine Butter Sauce

Osso Buco

Osso Buco in winter has one of the most perfectly matched meal-to-season ratios ever developed.  The blissful and simple aroma of celery, onion, carrot and garlic simmering with tomatoes and cosseting a tender, delicate but satisfying veal and marrow bone combo is the definition of kitchen cozy.  The satisfying flavor, delicate and robust simultaneously, is a cook’s gift.  The diners’ pleasure just might be one of the most perfect winter sports.

I like to make this braise in the oven but it is equally at home on the top of the stove.  You can use the same sturdy oven-proof casserole for either.  it will take about the same time and the same amount of basting.  Experiment.  Find your own favorite because you’ll be making this delicious meal again.  And again.

One more thing: remind your guests to save their marrow bones for last. mmmm.

Osso Buco

4 tablespoons La Castellina Olive Oil
2 tablespoons Vermont Butter and Cheese unsalted butter
6 pieces of veal shank about 2-1/2 inches thick
¼ cup flour
1 teaspoon salt and 5-6 grinds of fresh black pepper
1 cup chopped yellow onion
2 trimmed and chopped celery stalks
1 chopped fat carrot
1 large minced garlic clove
1-1/2 cups dry white wine
1 28-oz can of peeled Pastoso Italian tomatoes and their juices, mashed
1-1/2 cups of warm broth—veal, chicken or beef
¼ teaspoon dried or 1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme
salt and pepper to taste

If you’re going to braise in the oven, now is the time to heat it to 350-degrees. Mix the flour, salt and pepper and dredge the meat in it.  Shake off excess flour.

Melt the oil at medium-high heat in a casserole large enough to hold all the veal in a one layer. Add the butter and when it finishes foaming turn the heat to medium and add the veal.  Make sure the pieces do not touch each other. Brown them lightly on all sides, remove them from the casserole and cover with aluminum foil.

Add the onion, celery and carrot and saute together until they soften a bit.  Add the garlic and continue sautéing until it gets just a hint of color.  Add the wine and continue cooking over medium heat and scraping the casserole bottom until all the bits of meat clinging to the casserole have dissolved.  Add the stock, tomatoes and thyme.

Put the veal back in the casserole and spoon some of the sauce over it.

This is where your big oven-or-stove-top decision comes in.  You can either  put it in a 350-degree oven and roast for 1-1/2 to 2 hours checking every half hour or so and spooning sauce over the meat until the meat is falling away from the bone.

Or you can braise on top of the stove starting with a boil and then bringing the heat down so that the pot maintains a simmer. If you’re choosing stove top make sure the liquid/veggie combo does not start out higher than halfway up on the veal.

Remove the veal from the casserole and tent with aluminum foil again.  Taste the sauce and correct for salt and pepper if you need to.  If the sauce is too thin boil it down on the top of the stove.  Consistency should allow the sauce to cling a bit to the veal.

These ingredients can be found at Olde Hudson
Check at for online availability.




How Stew Saved My Life

The warm weather made Olde Hudson’s move to new quarters on Warren Street much easier than it would have been with mounds of snow and your good wishes made me positively buoyant.  But I still needed more—more energy, more time, more pleasure and more nourishment for the job ahead.

Being who I am and what I do every day I looked for those things by doubling down on the joy of being able to cook every day with great ingredients.

My choice for the best meals often has been stew.  Maybe because stews transform familiar ingredients mysteriously into great meals.  I’m beginning to believe that they evolved to give us the happiness of place and taste and process.

So whether you call it stew or estofado, ragout or stufato we need to celebrate the time-honored marriage of meat, fish, vegetables and legumes cooking in liquid. Giving them personality and cultural context with spices and serving them in the simple manner they dictate—that’s the bonus.

So I look around at the shelves at Olde Hudson and decide if Italian or Indian, Asian or French is the accent I want over noodles or rice.  Or do I just want to add potatoes to the pot?  Beans?  Yup.  Stew saved my life!

The principles of stew are always the same but here’s a  basic Veal Stew — a delicate welcome-to-spring offering.  It serves 4 or 2 lucky people twice.


  • 1 tablespoon La Castellina Olive Oil
    I tablespoon Vermont Butter and Cheese Butter
    2 lbs veal, cubed
    Optional: 1 cup Peewee Potatoes or 1 lb Yukon Gold Potatoes cut into cubes
    1 sprig tarragon
    1 bunch of scallions or 1 lb of shallots or onions
    Salt and pepper
    ½ cup of white wine
    1 cup of English Peas or Baby Carrots cut into 1-inch pieces or almost any sort of mushrooms, etc. What’s is in the veggie bin?

Add oil and butter to a heated heavy skillet and then add the meat—don’t crowd it, each piece should have contact with the pan. Cook it until the meat is browned on the bottom, 4-5 minutes. Scrape any stuck pieces up and turn the meat,

Add tarragon, onions, shallots or scallions and salt and pepper and stir until they soften then add the wine or water and potatoes, if you’re using them, turn heat to low and cover. You can cook this 35-40 minutes… meat and potatoes should be should be fork tender.

Uncover, add the veggies and allow to steam right on top for another 5-6 minutes.
If you haven’t made this with potatoes serve over Jasmine rice or wide noodles.

These ingredients can be found at Olde Hudson.                                                                              Check at for online availability.